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Archive for the ‘rock climbing’ Category

Some time ago, we did an article on the Borneo Eco-Challenge adventure race. This was in the early days when we were just discovering adventure racing as an extreme sport. The Borneo eco-challenge was obviously a popular event as we have subsequently received many requests for further information.

This event has not had a recent re-run. However,  ESPN STAR Sport Event Management and associates have come up with a new event:  the Perak Amanjaya Eco Race 2009.

This is rather a last minute alert, but the whole race is a little bit last-minute anyway, which is why this year it is invitation only. However, the organisers intend this to be an annual event so bookmark it now for next year…

The race is due to begin on the 2nd December, completing by the 6th December, 2009 and promises to be an adventure race classic. It will include such disciplines as Trail Running, Kayaking, Mountain Biking, In-line Skating, Abseiling, Canyoning, Rapelling and Swimming… and the state government of Parak, Malaysia, will be hosting the event.

Location, location, location. Don’t we hear that so often? Well, this event is definitely in a beautiful location. It begins in the Royal Belum State Park (rainforest) which is the largest continuous forest complex in Peninsular Malaysia and which crosses into Southern Thailand. It is estimated to be as old as 130 million years, making it older than the jungle of the Amazon or Congo – sorry, I can never resist a little history! Needless to say, some areas of this magnificent forest are being plundered by loggers… when will we ever learn?

This region receives about 2,200 cm of rain per annum – so expect it to be wet! It also has its fair share of big cats, venomous snakes, elephant, Sumatran rhino’s plus a whole host of other bird and wildlife.

Banding Island as seen from Tower House

The race starts at Banding Bridge which is the gateway to Royal Belum Rainforest. A quick run across the bridge and then an abseil down to the lake sets the event off to an exciting start. You then swim to a pontoon, get a kayak and paddle across to the lake shore where you will have to carry your kayak along a jungle trail to the next stretch of water where you will kayak back to the island, leave the kayak and run back to the bridge. An in-line skate across the bridge will bring the first day to a close.

Day 2 starts at the foot hill of Taiping Hill where there will be a trail run to a waterfall. After canyoning down the waterfall competitors will run to Taiping Lake Garden (the first public garden established during the British rule in Malaysia), and in-line skate under the Golden Raintrees. From here there will be a mountain bike ride to the Kampung river mouth for another kayak to Kuala Sepetang and final run on the boardwalk to finish at the jetty of Kuala Sepetang.

Day 3 will be a rest day but also a transfer from Taiping to Pasir Salak where the race will continue.

Pasir Salak is the place where modern Malaysia took shape. It is where the independence movement against the British began and where the first British  resident of Perak, James W.W. Birch, was murdered on 2nd November, 1875. The rebellion of 1875 in Pasir Salak sowed the seeds of nationalism, which manifested itself in the form of opposition to colonialism, and to the formation of a Malayan Union, which ignited the flame of independence.

Today Pasir Salak is an historical site whose purpose is to remind the younger generation of the events there and the fight against colonialism in Perak, and also to remember the struggle and the sacrifice of the warriors to uphold the dignity of the race and country.

So, after yet another history lesson from me, I shall continue with the matter at hand – the eco-challenge adventure race:

Day 4 kicks off with a mountain bike ride up to the beautiful Ulu Geruntum, which is the raft starting point. From here you white water raft down to Kampung Jahang…

run to the cave entrance to start the caving section…

and finish with a run to the finish line at Kampung Tengah.

Day 5, the final day, starts at Pasir Salak with a mountain bike ride to Teluk Batik, kayak to Teluk Segadas at Pangkor Island, rapel down the rock, run to Teluk Dalam beach, swim in the sea in front of Teluk Dalam and finally finish at the beach of Teluk Dalam.

For 2009 this event is open to teams of 2 persons only – male, female or co-ed; only 20 teams are invited and again, for this year, it is an ‘invitation only’ event. Teams are coming from Malaysia, Hong Kong, Macao, Thailand, Singapore, Australia, New Zealand, USA and Finland.

For those of you who would like to enter but wonder what on earth your better half (!) is going to do whilst you’re battling your way through the jungle (if your better half isn’t battling through it with you) … remember that glancing reference I made above to the type of fauna to be found in the Royal Belum National Park?  Well, I then came across this little list – and please bear in mind it is not a final list, of what sort of flora and fauna can be seen and enjoyed in the Royal Belum Rainforest:

247 species of birds
100 species of mammals
170 species of butterflies
251 species of moths
51 species of land snails
36 species of aquatic and semi aquatic bugs
25 species of cicadas
24 species of amphibians
21 species of lizards
23 species of snakes
23 speices of freshwater fish
7 species of freshwater and land turtles
62 species of moss
64 species of ferns
46 species of palms
30 species of gingers
3000 species of flower plants
3 species of freshwater decapod
44 species of wild fruit trees

Apart from that there is the Taiping Lake Garden which, at 222 acres, is the biggest urban parkland in Malaysia, designed and built about 130 years ago in the remains of an old tin mine. It has beautifully laid out ponds, lakes, and reputably, the best zoological gardens in the whole region. And then there’s the spectacular beach of Teluk Dalam and the beautiful island of Pangkor. Just a few of things one might see and do out there. No-one could possibly be bored…

Eldorado Springs is in Boulder County, Colorado and the Eldorado Canyon State Park (20 minutes from downtown Boulder) is famous for the many classic North-American climbing routes that are found here. It has some of the best trad. climbing in Colorado.

It is a town that once lay claim to the largest swimming pool in the country, but now boasts the best-tasting water in North America – as judged at the 1996 International Festival of the Water’s, Toast to the Tap Contest.

Eldorado Canyon has been a magnet for adrenaline junkies for decades – dare-devil Ivy Baldwin demonstrated his heroics by crossing Eldorado Canyon on a tight-rope suspended high above the canyon floor. Guest lists included such famous names as Dwight and Mamie Eisenhower, actor Douglas Fairbanks and heavyweight champion Jack Dempsey.

However, it’s the wide variety of spectacular rock climbing that we are here to talk about…

Eldo is made up of steep, beautiful conglomerate sandstone walls of up to 700 feet high, in brilliant shades of red and gold. The rock quality, although sandstone, is more similar to granite than to the soft sandstone found throughout much of Utah and Arizona.

The largest cliff, Redgarden Wall, is a few thousand feet wide; it boasts several spectacular summits and an incredible collection of classic climbs.

photo courtesy of Ron Olsen

I know many places claim to have the “finest rock climbing in the country”, but this is something pretty special – with names like Freight Train, Iron Monkey, The Naked Edge (5.11), Grandmother’s Challenge (5.10c), Anthill Direct (5.9), Over the Hill (5.10.b), Bastille 5.7/5.8),  Scary Canary (5.12), Eldorado Canyon has over 500 established routes to offer. 5.13s are fairly rare, due to bolt restrictions, but some historic classics such as Desdichado and Rainbow Wall do exist. It has something to offer every standard of climber…

This is truly amazing for a canyon this small; indeed the entire park covers an area of only a half square mile.

Eldo has long attracted the best climbers worldwide who come to defy gravity on cutting-edge face climbs, steep cracks, and exposed, gutsy roof routes. The mere mention of such classic climbs as Rosy Crucifixion (10a) and The Naked Edge (5.11) inspire respect and anticipation in the hearts of rock climbers everywhere.

Top ropes and exclusively bolted leads are rare in Eldorado. The Eldorado sport routes start at 5.11.

Bolts, pitons, and other fixed gear are not maintained by the park. While technical climbs do not require registration, it is your responsibility to make sure someone reports your absence if you happen to be overdue.

photo courtesy of Stacy Bender

“Eldorado is one of the most intensely used rock climbing places in the U.S.,” said Tim Metzger, the Park Manager. “It’s a very historic sight. People have been climbing here since the ’50s. We now attract over 70,000 technical climbers each year.”

Just look at this face – Bastille Crack (5.7/5.8) with climbers on pitch 2:

photo courtesy of Stacy Bender

What better way could you possibly pass a weekend? Hmm, having said that, weekends are of course free for everyone and it can be a bit of a bun-fight there – to avoid crowds it might be better to try going in the middle of the week sometime – this will not ensure solitude but will at least give you a better chance of finding it.

Ideally, a traditional climber’s road trip to Boulder should include a day at Eldo followed by a day at Lumpy Ridge (45 minutes from Boulder). Both offer fantastic climbing, but it is hard to imagine two more different styles. Lumpy Ridge is mainly highly technical granite that requires solid footwork compared to Eldo’s sandstone.

One can climb in Eldo at any time of year, though summer is piping hot, while winter is inconsistent. It is always always popular, and 20 minutes from downtown Boulder, ‘far from the madding crowd’ it is not…

Because Eldo is such a small area with such a wealth of climbs it can be a little confusing. The best guidebook for the region is  Richard Rossiter’s comprehensive “Rock Climbing Eldorado Canyon”. However, Fred Knapp’s “Classic Boulder Climbs” is about a third of the cost, and still has most of the best routes as well as other great routes around Boulder.

On an environmental note, please remember that the walls at Eldorado Canyon are also crucial breeding areas for birds of prey which are extremely sensitive to human disturbance during their nesting and roosting cycle.To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, seasonal raptor closures are in effect from February 1 – July 31, 2006. Routes include: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), the Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches), and the Sidetrack…. However, please contact City of Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks at (303) 441-3440 to make sure you are able to climb where you want to, when you intend to…

My thanks for the use of these wonderful photographs.

“The climbing experience offers something that’s very hard to get in today’s society, infatuated as it is with video games and reality TV and almost divorced from the natural world and real challenge” – Jeff Lowe

If you have done any ice-climbing in the past or intend to give it a go this winter, you will no doubt have heard of Jeff Lowe.

Lowe, a Utah native who was skiing at four and was making technical rope climbs in the Tetons with his father at 6, has been ascending the tallest mountains since somewhere in the 1960’s. Back then there was no such thing as sport or trad. Jim Donini, one of Lowe’s climbing partners, says “He was an all-rounder—he did it all. Although at the time, it was just known as climbing.”

Having stood atop the Himalayas and the highest and most difficult mountains in the Alps, it was his 1978 solo climb up frozen Bridalveil Falls in the rugged San Juan Mountains near Telluride, Colorado, that put Lowe firmly into the history books. Four years earlier he, and friend Mike Weis, had been the first climbers to make it up the 40-story column of ice. In 1978 Lowe did it solo and has subsequently retained an almost mythical status amongst ice climbers.

From the beginning, he was a climbing purist. He believes in fast, light climbing — one or two climbers, possibly three, each carrying everything he needs on his back; no fixed ropes or established camps; camping on the face of the mountain; no oxygen; the most technically challenging routes, often ones that have never been attempted; the use of only one or two ropes.

“I’m not a big adrenaline junkie,” he says. “If you get that, it means things are out of control. I try to avoid that. I hate big shots of adrenaline. It means you don’t have enough margin. That’s why I didn’t kill myself in 40 years of hard-core climbing. I know there are people who think adrenaline is a big part of it. For me, it was finding out what I could do safely.”

Instead of adrenaline, Lowe sought the aesthetics of climbing — the beauty and solitude of his surroundings, the physical and mental challenges of technical climbing and self-discovery.

It was his attempt of the North Ridge of Latok 1 (7,145 m or 23,441 ft) in Pakistan that is considered to be one of the greatest alpine endeavors of all time. Jim McCarthy calls it “by far the greatest failure of American mountaineering.”

Lowe and his team, Jim Donini, Michael Kennedy and cousin George Lowe, spent 26 days on the mountain and came within 122m (400 ft) of the summit, a high point that still holds. Donini cites diminishing fuel reserves, Jeff’s illness from a near-fatal virus and horrendous weather as the main reasons for their retreat. To this day, the North Ridge of Latok 1 awaits a first ascent, despite numerous attempts.

He has accumulated in excess of 1,000 first ascents including the first ascent of the now famed Moonlight Buttress in Zion National Park (V, 5.9, A3, 1971) which he climbed with Mike Weis, plus numerous others in the Alps, Dolomites, Cascades, Himalayas, Rockies, and Andes. He once calculated the number of nights he had spent bivouacked in a tent on the face of a cliff; it added up to several years.

His some-time climbing partner Jim Donini, recent past president of the AAC and a top alpinist, credits Lowe with importing ice-climbing techniques from Europe. He returned with a renewed notion of what was possible. Such first ascents as Bridalveil Falls (WI6, 1974) in Colorado, and Keystone Greensteps (WI5, 1975), Alaska, are Lowe’s ice climbing legacy.

Jim McCarthy says “He transformed ice climbing, period.”

During the late 1990s, while the ESPN Winter X-Games were still held in Big Bear, California, event organizers needed an innovative structure for the ice-climbing competition but the temperatures were too high (60 F) to create frozen waterfalls. After a few days of brainstorming, Lowe came up with the idea of a refrigerated free-standing holographic ice tower … and ice climbing went X-treme!

This tower has now been purchased by Ogden Climbing Parks, a non-profit organization which Lowe is associated with,  and will soon be erected in Ogden’s Big-D Sports Park providing reliable and easy access Ice Climbing. This will be a MAJOR contribution to Ogden as a recreation centre and will draw hundreds of ice climbers to the area.

In the late 1990s Lowe developed multiple system atrophy, a neurodegenerative disorder similar to MS. In 2004, at the age of 53 he had to give up climbing altogether. It is a cruel irony that the man who once solo-climbed a 40-story pillar of ice and became a legend and a Sports Illustrated cover boy with his international climbing exploits should contract such a cruel disease.

“It’s poetic injustice,” he says. “I say that tongue in cheek. I’m not saying ‘Why me?’ I’m saying, ‘Why not me?’ A lot of people have worse disabilities than I do.”

But this did not signal the end of life as he knew it to him – he just took another direction and now continues his involvement and passion for climbing through Ogden Climbing Parks. His goal is to promote and develop the climbing potential around Ogden, Utah. Ogden Climbing Parks also runs programs that allow underprivileged children and those with disabilities to enjoy the climbing experience.

Ogden, with its ambition to become the sports adventure centre of America is fortunate to have someone of Jeff Lowe’s caliber on their team. He was recruited to create a climbing park and to develop Ogden’s potential as a climbing haven. With his passion for mountaineering and his experience, he intends to revolutionise climbing in Ogden, working diligently to secure and open new climbing areas throughout the region.

“I enjoyed climbing so much that I’m getting a lot of joy in passing it along,” he says.

A man to admire…

Some of the best rock climbing in England can be found in Cornwall and climbers from around the world journey there to take advantage of the wide choice of climbing and abseiling available whether it be on inland rock faces such as  Bodmin Moor or rocky cliffs towering over the sea.

Bodmin Moor, in northeastern Cornwall, has dramatic granite tors rising above rolling moorland: the best known are Brown Willy (the highest point in Cornwall at 417 m (1,370 ft) and Rough Tor at 400 m (1,300 ft). This is a beautiful part of Cornwall and the tors of Bodmin Moor are good for climbing and bouldering. There are several other climbing areas closeby…

Kilmar Tor on the eastern side of Bodmin Moor, is a rugged granite ridge and the highest tor here is 396m. There are two climbs that you will need climbing equipment for and plenty of scope for bouldering.

The Cheesewring on Bodmin Moor offers further challenges with many climbs around the wall of the granite quarry. This quarry is on Access Land owned by the Duchy of Cornwall. Climbing is permitted on Access Land provided there are no local restrictions.

The cliffs around Cornwall offer a wealth of sea climbing routes which rival any in the country, so whether you’re an experienced climber or eager amateur wanting to improve your skills, you will find the perfect location for your climb at sites such as Bosigran, Halldrine Cove, Rosemergy Towers, Sennen, Land’s End, The Lizard, North and South East Cornwall and the Chair Ladder. These all provide a variety of climbs with varying levels of difficulty.

The area is composed of mostly granite sea cliffs, although there are a few examples of Greenstone and Killas Slate crags scattered around the north coast between St. Just and St. Ives.  The granite cliffs offer superb rock quality and natural lines, which allow for perfect protection. The 3 main crags are Bosigran and Sennen on the north coast and Chair Ladder on the south.

Sennen Cove is north of Penzance and has a lovely climbing arena just 5m above the sea. Expect to get wet if it’s rough. The rock is granite -very grippy – and the routes are all short and severe. Grades range from Difficult to E6.  Demo Route and the Overhanging Wall – both VS 4c – are worth trying though it is worth noting that the routes are short and so have been graded down by the authors of the Guidebook. Leaders should ensure that their protection is very good here – no errors will be forgiven.

Bosigran is a little further round the north coast (near Pendeen). It is a superb line of cliffs 150 feet above the sea. The granite is fantastic and so are the routes. Most of the grades here are accurate and routes tend to be about 150 feet in length, or more. The Climber’s Club have a luxurious hut (with double glazing, showers, phone, cookers, beds…) near the top of the cliffs, so if you’re a member… you’ve got it made, and the milkman passes at about 10:30 every morning! Doorway and Doorpost are both excellent climbs. Also recommended are Little Brown Jug (VS 4c/5a) and Autumn Flakes.

Chair Ladder, just south of Lands End, has long, exposed and well climbed routes which are true to their grades. It is best to have a guidebook (see below) as the cliff is very complex and the access is tidal.

The Lizard Peninsula is a relatively recently developed climbing area. The rock is of 3 main types – Mica Schist, Ampribolite and Serpentine. These rock types vary dramatically in quality. Fans of steep juggy routes will love it here. There are single- and multi-pitch routes up to 170ft,  and it is here that you will find the remarkable roof route of Aboriginal Sin (E3 5c)

A standard rack of gear should suffice and an abseil rope will be very useful – but don’t take my word for it, always check it out with the locals or a guide book before you set off. The definitive guidebook  is ‘West Cornwall’, published by the Climbers Club. It gives updated descriptions for the cliffs previously covered by the CC’s Bosigran and Chair Ladder guidebooks as well as the crags of the Lizard Peninsula. It gives you the most complete coverage of the climbing available in this region. 2,160 climbs are described!

I need say no more…

Or perhaps just a little bit more…

The bold statement that “The Sun always shines!” is not strictly true… this is, after all, England we’re talking about – that green and pleasant land! However, the statement holds enough credibility to lure hundreds of British and foreign climbers to Cornwall every year. The weather is warm, nearly Mediterranean, the climbs come in all varieties from pleasant rambling to the really tough, skin tearing pitch of shear desperation. Cornwall is a satisfying rock climbing area and once hooked you will return again and again.

It’s been a while since I started the climbing styles discussion (trad and sports), so time to add some more information. Please note that these ‘discussions’ are merely an introduction to various climbing stlyes not the bible. And now for the i’s…

Indoor Climbing

Some would say that indoor climbing is ruining the sport of rock climbing, but as with everything, there is a time and a place for it, if only to get your initial rock climbing lessons. However, the tendency to become a little cocky on an indoor wall has been known, and seldom transfers with confidence to a real rock face!

There is a place for indoor climbing. Many people live in an inclement climate which prevents them from climbing outdoors as often as they wish. Equally many people find it difficult to find the time to go out rock climbing, but most people nowadays find time to go to a gym … and if you love rock climbing and there is a wall at your gym, then hey – why not?

In order to improve in any sport, consistent practice is crucial. With the advent of indoor climbing, weather, seasonal difficulties, and busy schedules are less of an obstacle to consistent improvement, and enjoyment of the sport.

The concept is simple: climbing walls, which can range from 14 thousand square feet to the size of a basement, are bolted with holds (points where the hands or feet can settle their weight in while climbing) and are located under a roof.

Because indoor climbing is in a controlled environment it is safer than climbing in the great outdoors, and although it may look easy as all the holds are easily distinguishable, it does offer different levels which you can try out and master. Despite the apparent uniformity from the ground, harder routes demand more effort and physical strength to be successfully scaled.

It is certain, though, that indoor climbing walls do not have the diversity of the real thing, nor the adrenaline buzz that you get from a real rock face. But for some, it’s better than nothing…

Ice Climbing

Ice climbing is self-explanatory – it’s all about ascending ice formations such as frozen waterfalls, icefalls and cliffs or rocks that have refrozen over.

There are two catagories of ice climbing: alpine ice and water ice.

Alpine ice, again self-explanatory, is in a mountain environment and is generally caused by precipitation. It is normally encountered on a summit attempt. Whereas water ice is caused by a frozen liquid flow of water and is found on cliffs or beneath water flows. Water ice is generally more technically challenging than Alpine ice.

Ice varies greatly in consistency according to weather conditions. It can be soft, hard, brittle or tough and the technical grade is independent of ice type. The strength of the ice is often surprising; even if the ice axe only goes in a centimeter or so it is enough to pull up on.

What you wear on your hands and feet is of vital importance for serious ice climbing. Your boots must be stiff enough to maintain ankle support and must be crampon compatible.  And your gloves will be of paramount importance. You ARE going to get cold, wet and numb! I have been told that the best are the GTX ones, but that they are pricey. If you can’t afford them then the next best thing to do is invest in the off brand pile gloves or wool gloves and carry multiple pairs. One that will get wet and one pair that will stay “dry” for belaying and standing around. Equally you could stock up with shells – the ones by OR are good and relatively affordable. Make sure you have yet another pair of warm, comfortable gloves for the way home.

Some important techniques and practices common in rock climbing (a discipline we are more familiar with) that are also employed in ice climbing include knowledge of rope systems, tying in, belaying, leading, abseiling, and lowering. However, there are other and different tools needed for ice climbing, amongst these are ice screws, ice axes/pick, a spike – important for balancing with the tool when you’re moving on low-angle ice, a hammerhead – allows you to pound pitons into the rock for protection, and an adze which can be helpful for chopping stances in alpine terrain and, of course, crampons.

One of the things that does make a difference in ice climbing is weight and balance – I have been told that this can make a difference to what tools you choose. Smaller climbers or those with less arm strength often prefer lighter tools whilst strong, confident climbers often prefer the weight of a heavy tool. More important than weight is balance. The tool’s balance point should be near its head so most of the energy of the swing goes into penetrating the ice.

If you are going to embark on an ice climbing career you must make sure that you are comfortable with the various tools. The best way to check this out is to attend an ice demo or festival where you can try out a variety of models bearing in mind that this is just a demo and does not give a full assessment of the tool’s performance.

I have given you the bare outlines of ice climbing here. I have not done it myself – though loving the cold as I do…hopefully it’s only a matter of time before I take on this challenge.

“Why ice climb? well apart from the fact that I get a huge buzz out of being scared shitless most of the time, its because its so so beautiful.” – Pete Atkinson

What further incentive could you possibly need?

“I am doing it for the thrill, for that feeling of danger and freedom.This is my way of expressing myself… We set ourselves limits, but we are all strong enough to aim higher, to achieve our goals. All we have to do is find such within ourselves. Know how to develop it… I do think that sometimes faith can move mountains”

Alain Robert

I do come across the most extroadinary people, places and events in my various researches, but Alain Robert has to be one of the most extroadinary people I have yet written about. Unfortunately, his urban climbing is so extra-extroadinary that I can find very little information on his equally fantastic rock climbing feats so have had to make do with stunning photographs instead… let me stop blathering and leave you to read about the French, or Human, Spiderman yourself.

Born in 1962, Alain Robert is the world’s most accomplished urban climber. He has scaled more than 85 buildings around the globe including the Eiffel Tower – 314m (1,027 ft), the Sydney Tower – 319m (1,047 ft), the Petronas Twin Towers – 452m (1,488 ft) in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Sears Tower Chicago – 443m (1,453 ft) and Taipei 101 – 508 m (1,667 ft).

Robert began climbing as a young boy, scaling rock cliffs in the area around his home. His ‘buildering’ career began at the age of 12 when he forgot his keys and was locked out of his parents’ eighth-floor apartment. Instead of waiting for them to return home, he simply scaled the exterior wall…

As this video from racchroxz testifies, his rock and urban climbs  do not include rope or rigging. He uses only his hands, chalk, and climbing shoes.

He is  an accomplished rock climber. In 1993 he achieved a world record for the most extreme solo performance in the Gorge du Verdon in the south of France.

In 1982 he suffered two accidents, the first in January at the age of 19 and the second in September at the age of 20. He fell 15 metres (49 ft) on both occasions. He suffered multiple fractures (to his cranium, nose, wrists, elbows, pelvis, and heels). He now suffers from permanent vertigo.

The doctors considered him 60 percent handicapped and told him he would not be able to climb again. However, within 6 months he was back doing what he loves most – climbing. He kept taking on more and more challenging structures and improving his skills. He polished his rock-climbing skills in the French Alps before turning to buildings.

In an interview in 2005 he admitted that he had fallen 7 times although the worst fall was the one in 1982. In 2004, he fell 2 metres (6 ft 6.7 in) when climbing a traffic light whilst posing for a photo in an interview. He landed on his elbow and needed forty stitches, but a month later he climbed the world’s tallest skyscraper at the time, Taipei 101, as part of its official opening week.

It was in 1994 that he began free solo climbing  the world’s tallest urban structures that would earn him the nickname  “The French Spiderman”.

He recently said that his most challenging urban climb was the Sears Tower (now Willis Tower) in Chicago Illinois in 1999. As he neared the top of the tower, the fog came down covering the glass and metal wall of the last 20 floors with moisture making it dangerously slippery. This made the climb considerably more dangerous, slower and more strenuous. However, nothing was going to stop him and he reached the top safely and successfully.

In 2008 he successfully scaled Hong Kong’s Four Seasons Hotel, a 45-story building and his third known urban climb in that city. To succeed, he had to resort to a strategy he has used many times in the past – to set off at dawn as  the Hong Kong police had been tipped off about a possible illegal ascent in the city.

Robert used the climb to promote greater awareness and international action for the cause of global warming.

He was briefly detained by authorities after the climb before being released. He has, in fact, been arrested and fined more than 100 times for illegally climbing the world’s tallest urban structures during the last two decades. These arrests and trials have been little more than formalities, although in 2007, in China, he was jailed and then deported after climbing the  88 story-skyscraper called the Jin Mao Tower – 420 m (1,378 ft).

“We set ourselves limits, but we are all strong enough to aim higher, to achieve our goals. All we have to do is find such strength within ourselves. Know how to develop it” he says.

His latest climb was the Petronas Tower in Malaysia – 452 m (1,483 ft) on 1st September this year. He successfully stood atop the highest point of the Tower.

Many of his climbs provide him no opportunity to rest and can last over an hour. That’s all! he attributes a lot of his success to his height – 1.65 m (5′5″) – which, being short and light, enhances his dexterity. He is, of course, in peak physical condition and has expert climbing techniques.

I suggest you visit his site, www.alainrobert.com – it’s worth it!

“Dude, if you fall, try to push out. It’s looking kinda grim.”

The Salathé Wall is El Cap’s most natural line and quite possibly the greatest rock climb in the world. Many claim that The Nose is more classic, but there is no doubt that the Salathé Wall offers pitch after pitch of exceptional climbing.

It is one of the original technical climbing routes up El Capitan and was named by Yvon Chouinard in honor of John Salathé, an earlier pioneer of rock climbing in Yosemite. The route is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America and considered a classic around the world.

The first free ascent of a main El Capitan route was The Salathé Wall. Todd Skinner and Paul Piana made the first free ascent over 9 days in 1988, after 30 days of working the route (graded 5.13b by the Yosemite Decimal System)

It’s a vertical wall of 2,900 feet or 883.92m.

“It has been called the finest rock climb in the world.
Thirty six rope lengths of superb, varied, and unrelenting
climbing on a near-vertical wall in one of nature’s most
masterful canyons.  Is it any wonder climbers from all over
the world have come to try the Salathe Wall.”
Royal Robbins

The Salathé Wall
Photo by Mark Kroess

This is climbing at its best as long as you enjoy vertiginous heights!

The Salathé Wall has elegant slab climbing, great cracks, horrifying bombay chimneys and, of course, the heart-stopping Hollow Flake.

The first ten pitches up to Mammoth Terraces is known as Freeblast and it  makes a nice relatively short day (it can be done in about six pitches with a 60m rope and minimal simul. climbing).

After FreeBlast the first real lead on the climb is pitch 12, SuperTopo, an 11C climb, described by one wit as: “It wanders a bit, but you shouldn’t have too much trouble.” This is Heart Ledge which wanders left, then pendulums left, then wanders back right. It’s mixed aid and free on poor quality rock with a few mandatory reachy moves and it gets you to Lung Ledge, and after Lung Ledge comes the fear inspiring  Hollow Flake.

Hollow Flake is infamous for being a seriously hard climb and unprotectable. It scares even the best of climbers. From there you’re into a chimney, in which, if the sun has  rounded The Nose, you are likely to be fried. Before you get to The Ear there is 30 feet of 10d(A1) that starts this pitch and then The Ear is in front of you, a huge (20 feet tall by 40 feet wide) chunk of rock that juts out from the main wall. It is attached only at the top, so it forms an upside down V with the maw at the bottom being about 4 feet wide.

Having successfully triumphed over The Ear, another chimney brings you to the spectacular  El Cap Spire. It’s a 20 by 20 foot free standing pillar that juts out from the side of El Cap.

The view down onto El Cap Spire.

There’s still a long way to go, and I’ve only talked you half the way up the wall, but, give or take,  Salathé is a 5-day climb. It’s popular so there will be others heading in the same direction as you which means some waiting, some frustrating moments catching up with those infront or being caught up by another team, but cameraderie there is bound to be – swopping of experiences, anecdotes and advice being the order of the day.

On the summit the view is breathtaking and the sense of fulfillment and achievement memorable. The awe engendered by the fact that you have climbed El Cap, that El Cap has allowed you to climb it, is a feeling that will never leave you – or so I’m told. Despite being exhausted, mutiliated, dehydrated, filthy and stinking, there will be a gleam in your eye which others will be envious of.

Hours of hiking and rappelling get you back down to the Manure Pile parking lot…

“Cruise or bruise
Summit or plummet
Make haste or tomato paste
Finger locks or cedar box
Climb in style or fly a mile
Unravel the mystery or soon become history
Underclings or angel wings
Nail the seam or giant scream.”

Dick Shockley, Cruising Up the Salathé Wall, Ascent 1980.

The best time to climb in the Yosemite Valley is mid-March to mid-May and mid-September to mid-November. Summer is too hot and winter is too wet and can be too cold. In April the weather is still variable, can be lovely but it can also be wet – however, the snow is over by then, and the chances are that the weather will be nice.

There is only one climbing shop in the locality – in Curry Village. The prices are not significantly higher than elsewhere and they do carry the speciality items needed in the Valley (pitons, haulbags, portaledges, etc…) in addition to the regular gear, but the choice is limited, and they might be out of stock. If you need to buy a lot of gear, it would be best to stop in Berkeley, which has a few good stores (Marmot, REI, Wilderness Exchange).

This is a terrific video from Noseclimber, well worth watching…

I love it when you do an article and then someone says: “hey, what about this one….” and you find that their suggestion is wonderfully interesting too, and well worth writing about.

Which is why, today, I have bothered to find out more about Annapurna – or, to be more precise, Annapurna I, which is an enormous Himalayan massif standing at 8091m (26,545 ft), making it the 10th-highest summit in the world and one of the 14 “eight-thousanders”. It is situated in Nepal.

PATIENCE, PRUDENCE AND TENACITY MUST BE UNITED IN ORDER TO ASCEND ANNAPURNA!!!

It is located east of a great gorge cut through the Himalayas by the Kali Gandaki River, which separates it from the Dhaulagiri massif. (Dhaulagiri I lies 34 km west of Annapurna I). It is a series of peaks in the Himalayas, a 55 km (34 miles)-long massif of which Annapurna I is the highest point. The mountain has glaciers on its western and northwestern slopes which drain into this gorge.

Annapurna is a Sanskrit name that can be translated as ‘Goddess of the Harvests’ or more simply ‘The Provider’.

One of Annapurna I’s claim to fame is that it was the first 8,000m (26,200 ft) peak to be climbed.

It was first summitted by a French expedition led by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal on 3 June 1950. It remained the highest summit for 3 years until the first successful attempt of Mount Everest. It is worth noting that higher climbs had been made prior to this but as they were non-summit climbs they don’t count!

In 1970 the south face of Annapurna I was conquered by Don Whillans and Dougal Haston, members of a British expedition led by Chris Bonington which included the alpinist Ian Clough.

As of 2005, there had been only 103 successful summit attempts. 56 lives have been lost on the mountain, many to the avalanches for which it is known. Climbers killed on the peak include alpinist Ian Clough in 1970, famed Russian climber Anatoli Boukreev in 1997, Christian Kuntner in 2005 and Iñaki Ochoa in 2008,

The first solo climb was October 2007 on the South Face by Slovenian climber Tomaž Humar.

The Annapurna massif contains six major peaks over 7,200 m

• Annapurna I            8,091 m
• Annapurna II          7,937 m
• Annapurna III        7,555 m
• Annapurna IV        7,525 m
• Gangapurna             7,455 m
• Annapurna South  7,219 m

The best months for climbing Annapurna are April/May and a good starting off point is Pokhara, Nepal. The closest airport is Kathmandu.

The greatest enemy to climbers of Annapurna are the avalanches.  These have taken the lives of many of the climbers that have dared to reach its highest point. The possibilities of severe and inhospitable climatic conditions are high with extreme cold and regular snowfalls to be expected.

Dhaulagiri looms directly opposite Annapurna, and between these two eight-thousanders lies the trekking route from Pokhara to Jomsom which runs through the deepest valley in the world.

It is an area of stunning beauty.

If climbing mountains and conquering peaks is not quite your thing, but you really want to get over there and witness for yourself the magnificent scenery, then the the Annapurna Circuit is just waiting for you.

It is the popular name for a 300 kilometre trek around the Annapurna mountain range in the Himalayas. The trek reaches an altitude of 5,300 metres on the Thorung La pass, touching the edge of the fabled Tibetan plateau. The magnificent mountain scenery, seen at close quarters includes Annapurna 8,091 metres, the magnificent ice pyramid Dhauligiri 8,167 metres, once the home of the legendary Buddhist guru Padmasamba, and Machhupuchhare 6,993 metres, considered by many to be the most beautiful mountain in the world.

Machhupuchhare

The trek follows ancient paths used as trade routes between Nepal and Tibet. These paths have long facilitated the flow of cultures and religions in this remote and formerly inaccessible region. There is an unusually wide range of climatic zones in this small small area, but the path ascends from 900 metres to 5,300 metres which provides a chance to see many different plants and animals, and the different ways of life of the many peoples who live there.

SQUAMISH – the “Outdoor Recreation Capital of Canada”

Peaceful, calm, tranquil, romantic, sensationally beautiful… are all words that spring to mind when looking at this photograph – but how many of you out there know how much you can do in Squamish, British Columbia and how many adrenaline pumping sports are available to those of you looking for something different?

For starters the district of Squamish is home to an extensive network of single-use and multi-purpose trails for walking, hiking, biking, dirt biking, and horseback riding, skiing at nearby Whistler, kayaking and river rafting. There is also  wind- and kite surfing at the head of the Howe Sound which has awesome wind on many clear days during the summer. The name Squamish means ‘Mother of the Winds’.

However, our interest today lies in … ROCK CLIMBING and what sort of rock climbing is available in the area and, as some of you surely know, Squamish is probably the best known rock climbing area in Canada. Less than an hour’s drive north of Vancouver, it is home to the Stawamus Chief, the world’s second largest granite monolith, at 2,100 feet (640m). It is second in line to El Capitan, which stands at a massive 3,593 feet (1,095m) in Yosemite National Park, California.

It’s the huge granite faces of The Chief that attracts climbers from around the world. With over 1,500 routes it has something for everyone from casual beginner climbs to 5.14 test pieces.

The rock is exclusively granite and mostly of exceptional quality though it does range widely in texture, but it is possible to generalise: the climbs near the town of Squamish are cracks and slabs on monolithic chunks of granite, while further north, face-climbing predominates on more metamorphosed rock.

The 500 metre walls of the Chief offer some fine big wall climbing, ranging in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.13 as well as a number of aid routes. The Cheakamus Canyon, a half hour north of the town of Squamish has a number of sports crags with routes from 5.8 to 5.14, while Whistler has at least one decent crag.

There are enough climbs to keep the average climber busy for many many years with a wide variety of styles to choose from. Single pitch climbs include sport routes, cracks, friction slabs and boulder problems. Amazing climbs in lush old-growth forests or on bluffs overlooking the ocean.

But it’s the multi-pitch climbing that the Stawamus Chief is particularly famous for…  granite climbing routes for all abilities.  While it’s not possible for a beginner to climb to the top of the Chief (about 15 pitches—some are rated as high as 5.13 or more), it’s perfectly feasible to make it about halfway up by climbing “The Apron,” which is shallow multi-pitch slab climb that has excellent five to seven pitch routes in the 5.7 to 5.9 grade range. For those with more experience, a climb to the top of the Chief is entirely possible with many excellent 5.10 and 5.11 routes from which to choose and if you’re an advanced climber, and it’s sport climbing you’re after, then Cheakamus Canyon between Squamish and Whistler is the place for you.

Almost all the climbs at Squamish may be climbed with a standard rack of nuts and cams to about 2.5”. If you are thinking of tackling a more challenging route please check with the local climbing authorities or a guide book to see what you will need. Although you can have a nice easy day out clipping only bolts on a sports crag, the true Squamish experience is doing it all yourself although some of the older routes still have a few rusty fixed pitons for protection. For the aid routes, you will need lots of iron including a number of hooks, as well as heads and perhaps a few rivet hangers.

From May to September the weather is usually sunny, with the temperature in the low to mid 20’s (C). March and April have common dry spells, though some climbs may still be wet. The rest of the year is often wet, or else too cold except for the die-hards who will climb in any climate or those who look for routes uncluttered by other people.

There are more climbs further north and there is still plenty of potential for further development in the whole region.

Dreamcatcher is here – a mind boggling Cacodemon boulder conquered only by Chris Sharma (bigupproductions):

As far as I know this climb has not been repeated despite several attempts by other strong climbers. Correct me if I’m wrong please. The Dreamcatcher is a route that starts on a technical slab that wedges the climber against the start of the overhang. Then a dyno to a sloping rail leads to a bouldery traverse across slopers and incut crimps. The crux of the route comes at the end with a deadpoint to slopers and a jug.

If you’re inspired by this article and decide to take a weekend break to Squamish please remember that this is also bear country – so keep your eyes peeled!

Also, it is an area much loved by the locals who would prefer that you left nothing behind but your footprints. Leaving trash, particularly plastic, really is unfair. Leaving graffiti on the rock faces is unforgivable.

As far as I can work out (and please correct me if I’m wrong) this is a mountain that has only been summitted twice, despite numerous attempts by highly qualified, top-of-their-game mountaineers.

Baintha Brakk is famous for being one of the hardest peaks in the world to climb. It is steep and craggy and 7,285 metres (23,901 ft) high.

Officially it lies in the Panmah Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram mountain range, North Pakistan, but it is a disputed border with India claiming it to be an integral part of the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir.

It is a complex granite tower, steeper and rockier than most other Karakoram peaks and is on the northeastern side of Biafo Glacier (west of K2). It is sinister and foreboding and its sheer east wall looks and acts like a medieval fortress. It is exceptional in its combination of altitude, height above local terrain, steepness. For example, its South Face rises over 3,000 metres (9,800 ft) above the Uzun Brakk Glacier in only 2 kilometres (1 mile) of horizontal distance!

It is because of this steepness and rockiness that the mountain was nicknamed ‘The Ogre’ and became so attactive for extremely highly qualified mountaineers.

There were two unsuccessful attempts on the peak in 1971 and 1976, but it was finally sucessfully summitted in 1977 by two Britons, Doug Scott and Chris Bonington. On 13th July, 1977, Scott and Bonington set off from a snowhole at 7,000m in a lightweight bid to make the summit. They climbed via the Southwest Spur to the West Ridge, and over the West Summit to the Main Summit. Tricky climbing led up to the final tower with a nearly vertical 100m granite face.  The long second pitch involved very demanding free- and aid-climbing (VI and A2) and included a giant pendulum movement at half-height to gain a second crack system. Above that, several more hard, challenging  pitches led to the summit, which the pair reached just before dusk.

This was probably the hardest technical climb ever achieved above 7,000m at that time.

On the descent, Scott attempted to make a diagonal rappel from just below the top, slipped, made a huge involuntary pendulum across the wall, slammed into a rock corner on the far side and badly broke both his ankles. From now on the descent would be a fight for survival, or as Scott reflected, ’so that’s how it was going to be; a whole new game with new restrictions on winning’.

After a night out in the open with no equipment, the two continued rappelling and were eventually met by Antoine and Rowland (members of their team), who escorted them back to the snowcave, Scott on hands and knees. The four were then trapped for more than 24 hours in a fierce blizzard with no food remaining.

Rowland made a superb effort, leading the team through atrocious weather over the West Summit and down to a second, much poorer, snowcave. The next day the storm was, if anything, worse but the three fit climbers battled down, escorting a sliding or crawling Scott towards two flattened tents left at the West Col. If things weren’t already bad enough, they then took a turn for the worse after Bonington fell, breaking two ribs and badly damaging his hand. It was now left to Antoine and Rowland to get the party off the mountain before it became too late.

Four days later, when Scott finally crawled over the moraine above Base Camp, his clothing torn to shreds, his knees raw and bloody, Braithwaite and Estcourt (the remaining team members) had already left, having given the party up for dead. Scott was subsequently carried for three days by local porters to the nearest village, where a helicopter was able to evacuate him. However, a bad landing put the aircraft out of action and Bonington was forced to wait another week before he could be flown to safety by which time he had contracted pneumonia.

The 1977 ascent has undoubtedly gone down in the annals of British mountaineering  history as one of its supreme moments, but only confirms that when operating at the highest levels, climbers often tread a very fine line… a line between life and death.

The second ascent of Baintha Brakk was made by Urs Stöcker, Iwan Wolf, and Thomas Huber, on 21 July 2001, via the South Pillar route, following their first ascent of the subsidiary peak, Ogre III (6,800 metres – 22,300 ft). Mountain INFO magazine characterized their ascent as “arguably the most notable mountaineering achievement during the entire 2001 season.”

By the beginning of 2001 almost 20 expeditions, involving world-class mountaineers, had tried the Ogre by various routes, most concentrating on either the elegant South or South East Pillars. Few had come within 300m of the summit and no one other than the Scott, Bonington, Stöcker, Wolf and Huber had managed to stand on the highest point.

Baintha Camp near Snow Lake (5,000m)

Much of Baintha Brakk remains unconquered – the South Pillar, the South-West Face, the East Summit, the South-East Ridge and Baintha Brakk II despite many valiant efforts which have been made over the past decades…

For those who dare to have a go at the mountain, hungry black bears add to the challenge. The bears have a penchant for seizing expedition food and terrorizing cooks and Pakistani Army liaison officers who guard the base camps below.