xtremesport4u

Archive for the ‘rock climbing’ Category

Yesterday we introduced the Seven Sisters to you – to remind you the highest mountain on each of the seven continents and amongst the mountaineering community considered to be a blue ribbon achievement to rank right up there with the greats.

We talked specifically about America’s highest mountain – Aconcagua – located in Argentina, South America and so today we will travel north to North America’s highest peak, Mount McKinley in Alaska.

Denali – The High One –  is the Native (Athabascan) American word for North America’s highest peak and this is where Fahrenheit and Celsius meet secretly at night at -40 degrees.

The highest mountain in North America, Mt. McKinley has been the goal of aspiring high altitude climbers since it was first climbed in 1913. Its reputation as a highly coveted summit derives from its location near the Arctic Circle and the Pacific Ocean giving it some of the most ferocious weather in the world. Because of its weather and ease of access, some climbers use McKinley as a training ground for climbing the 8,000 metre peaks of the Himalayas.

The fact that the West Buttress route is not technically difficult should not obscure the need to plan for extreme survival situations. Of course, some climbers manage to get up and down in perfectly nice but rare period of good weather. However they are the lucky ones – the West Buttress route, it is a terribly underestimated climb.

Climbers interested in more detailed discussions of Denali’s routes should consult HIGH ALASKA or the MOUNT MCKINLEY CLIMBER’S HANDBOOK.

Snow and weather conditions for climbing Denali are usually best from May through July. Colder minimum temperatures and strong northwest winds commonly occur in May. Winter climbing in Denali borders on the ridiculous more because of its unfathomable risks than because of its mountaineering challenge. Some of the world’s best climbers have either disappeared or perished form literally being flash frozen.

In the video below from DavidWhitingOutdoors an expedition to summit Denali is described and shown, starting at the 17,000 foot base camp and finishing with the summit of Denali at 20,320 feet – the highest peak in North America.

Where shall we go tomorrow – tune in to discover!

Where to start – that is the question.

‘A’ would seem a pretty obvious answer and so it shall be – Aconcagua – the highest mountain in the Americas and the highest mountain in the western hemisphere – the first of the 7 sisters about which we will blog over the next few days.

The 7 sisters are the highest 7 mountains on each of the 7 continents, although even on this point there is discussion and disagreement but for the sake of space we will look at what are generally considered ‘the 7 sisters’.

They are namely:

• Aconcagua – South America, Argentina – 6962 metres  22,842 feet
• Mt McKinley or Denali – North America, Alaska, USA – 6194 metres  20,320 feet
• Elbrus – Europe, Russia – 5642 metres  18,510 feet
• Kilimanjaro – Africa, Tanzania – 5892 metres  19,340 feet
• Vinson Massif – Antarctica, claimed by Chile – 4892 metres  16,050 feet
• Carstensz Pyramid – Australia, Maoke Mountains, Indonesia – 4884 metres  16,024 feet
• Everest – Asia, Nepal and China – 8848 metres   29,029 feet

But back to Aconcagua – above, photo courtesy William Marler. There are 5 recognised routes.

• The Normal Route  - a scramble, failure due to altitude sickness, no easy ride
• Polish Traverse – as above
• Polish Glacier Route – glacier climb and short technical rock climb – tough
• Argentinian Route –  ice and rock climbing, very difficult very tough
• Ibanez-Marmillod Route – high altitude Alpine climb, definitely only for the very competent

All attempts must start in Mendoza in Argentina where a permit to climb the mountain can be purchased. These will cost as much as $500 depending on the time of year you attempt your climb, the Christmas holiday period is the most expensive.

There are many rules and regulations which you must acquaint yourselves with before you set out – to upset the apple cart will cost you dearly.

To give you a good idea of what it is like if you take one of the ’scrambles’  the video below from Gonzandes dramatically shows a realistic representation.

Its a great feeling to be on top of the world and certainly the conquering of Aconcagua will give you that – its no walk in the park though – you have to be in tip top condition. We will give you a brief blog on one of Aconcagua’s sisters tomorrow.

It is amazing how we, at xtremesport4u, keep coming across another area which has termed itself  ‘the  most popular rock climbing area in the world‘…. Hmmm, they can’t all be the most popular, but they do all have something unique to themselves, and Joshua Tree is one of those places.

There are about 4,500 routes (although there seems to be some controversy  here as I have read that there are as many as 7,000 routes) in about 100,000 acres of parkland. Well for a start that’s not bad – at least it’s well spread out and you’re not all climbing on top of each other, or, even worse, waiting for a space to appear before you can even start climbing. However, before I wax too lyrical – over 1 million people do visit the park on a yearly basis and a lot of these are rock climbers.

The routes closest to the parking lots and campsites are the most popular but it is worth investigating the climbs deeper into the wilderness as they are less cluttered and well worth the walk.

Although the type of rock found at Joshua Tree could be loosely classified as granite, it is actually  ‘Quartz Monzonite’ or ‘Monzogranite’. A million years ago, when Joshua Rock and much of California and Baja California were being formed, cooling rates varied enough to make dramatic differences in the rock texture. Some of the nastiest rock in the park is found at Jumbo Rocks, where relatively slow cooling allowed big, flesh-ripping crystals to form whereas formations like Echo Rock cooled more quickly, yielding smaller crystals and smoother rock and as the rock cooled it fractured creating wonderful joints which you can find on routes like Tiptoe, 39 Steps, and Pops Goes Hawaian.

Weather and erosion have played their part too causing huge slabs of rock to peel off the faces of domes. Rainfall collects in pockets, intensifying small-scale weathering and leading to the formation of potholes. Flash floods and wind transport grains away from the formations. Even climbers contribute on a small scale, accidentally breaking off handholds, and more commonly, dislodging loose grains.

And this partially explains why it has become one of the many “favourite climbing spots in the world”. It is certainly a climbers’ mecca and has become a favourite worldwide trad climbing spot and if you don’t believe me, check out the  clarkgrubb video of Cryptic, a 5.8 sport route which is a fun classic with some great moves and gives you an idea of what is on offer at J-Tree:

and then tell me that that doesn’t look fun!

And then of course, if you’re into free-climbing, this place really is your oyster:

Apologies if you find the words of the song offensive, but who says rock climbers, and freesoloist in this particular case, don’t push all horizons to the limit!

J-Tree has something for everyone – from bouldering to extreme challenging climbs.

The temperature at J-Tree can be variable although it is safe to say that it is generally hot in the summer (May-September) – up to 100 degrees Farenheit, and around about 50 F in winter. However, winter storms can cause dramatic swings in temperature with one day happily being 75 F and the next as low as 45…

There are some regulations that are worth taking note of:

• It is prohibited to initiate or terminate a climb in an occupied campsite without prior permission of the occupant of that site.
• The use of any substance, such as glue, epoxy, or cement, to reinforce hand or footholds is prohibited.
• “Chipping” or enhancing hand or footholds is prohibited as is removing vegetation or “gardening.”
• Climbing within 50 feet of any rock-art site is prohibited.
• If penetrating into the wilderness,  stick to the existing trails.

These regulations are, I would have thought, unneccesary to have to put in writing as I would hope that rock climbers are conscious of the pristine state of the landscape and terrain that they are climbing in – however, there’s always someone who lets the side down. So come on guys, think of others, and think of the natural balance of the land that you are actually trespassing in – and treat it with respect! And remember to carry out EVERYTHING that you take in. In fact, leave nothing behind but your footprints. Thank you!

Some months ago we talked about deep water soloing (extreme sport – Deep Water Soloing) and included it in a more recent article where we profiled Chris Sharma (chris sharma) and now our attention has been drawn to Natalija Gros from Slovenia, ranked 4th in the world with IFSC – the International Federation of Sport Climbing. We were sent the following film by Film IT newpartisancinema:

Film IT’s aim is to “merge the poetry of Film with the excellence of Information Technology.”

Kranj, the fourth largest city in Slovenia and known for its sporting facilities, hosted the final competition of the Climbing World Cup last weekend. Four Slovenians were in the finals. The usual flagships amongst the women were there: Maja Vidmar, Natalija Gros and Mina Markovič. And for the first time, Klemen Bečan made it in the men’s division. He won the first ever gold medal for the Slovenian men’s climbing team.

Slovenia’s womens’ climbing team  is probably the strongest in the world at the moment.

OK, so why are the Slovenians soooooo good at climbing? Could it be that their country offers some of the best climbing in Europe?

Well, I’m not sure if they claim that title yet as Slovenia is fairly new on the rock climbing ‘favourite place’ atlas, but they certainly have a great playground on their doorstep… In fact, there is no other country in Europe that packs such a variety of landscape, outdoor activities and culture into such a small area.

There are over 80 different crags in Slovenia offering more than 3,600 different routes all of which are sensibly bolted and solid. Climbing can be split into three main areas. The total offer of routes is tremendous, both for beginners as well as top climbers.

*  Around Bled and Bohinj
*  Around Osp, including Trieste in Italy and Istria in Croatia
*  Around Celje

Please note that Slovenia uses the French grading system.

Bled is in the Julian Alps in the north west of the country and is a spectacularly beautiful area.There are 7 main crags with 350 routes to choose from on limestone rock. All the routes are well bolted and are mainly single pitch with a good cross section of grades with the majority in the 6a – 7b range. The nearby region of Bohinj is highly recommended. There are various grades on offer and everyone will find sport climbing routes on the limestone rock that will fit their climbing level.

The ideal time to visit Bled for rock climbing is from Spring through to the Autumn.

Due to the country’s excellent road structure (and relatively small size) these crags are generally easily reached within an hour, offering a wide scope of routes to choose from, including some multi-pitch routes up to 440m high.

Osp is the most popular climbing region in the country with over 600 across-the-board routes. There are 3 main crags all within 4kms of each other – Osp, Misja Pec and Crni Kal. Osp is a veritable wall rising above the rooftops of the village…

Whilst Misja Pec, with its vertical walls and steep overhangs, is one of the finest crags not only in Slovenia but in the whole of Europe. The horseshoe-shaped overhanging crag shot to fame in recent years for the sheer number and variety of routes on offer. Stamina tends to be the name of the game, but short bouldery routes can be found on the overhangs to the left and right. There are about 175 routes here of which about 60 are above 8a, and only a handful of the 175 are easy. It is one of the best crags for rock climbers that are looking for steep quality limestone.

Crni Kal is about 5 kilometres from Osp and offers nice climbing on good quality limestone. There are a mixture of single and multi-pitch climbs – all well bolted. Although rock climbing is possible throughout the year here, the ideal time is Spring through to Autumn.

Being placed right in the bottom south western corner of Slovenia, Osp is sandwiched between Italy and Croatia. There is some great climbing to be found on either side of the border.

The third main region is Celje which is situated in the north east of Slovenia. Here there are 2 major crags, Kotecnik and Kamnik, and between them there are 350 sports routes on well bolted, limestone rock. The largest crag, Kotecnik, offers a good range of grades, while the rock climbing at Kamnik offers a wide selection of routes in the lower grades from 4 to 5c+. Both are situated within forests making them ideal rock climbing areas from spring to autumn, and are very popular in the summer.

A quick warning – out of season climbing, November to February, although possible, can be cold and wet and Summer can be very hot.

Natalija Gros climbing Misja Pic near Osp.

If you don’t have much time but are looking for some fantastic one-day climbing, look no further than Oak Creek Canyon whose south western side is formed by Wilson Mountain, a huge mountain north of Sedona in red rock country.

Wilson Mountain can be climbed any time of the year, but there may be snow on top in the winter. If there is, in-step crampons are recommended but not required. It is extremely hot in the summer, so spring and fall are the best months to climb it.

Mention tourist attractions in Arizona and the answer will be ‘The Grand Canyon’. Well, you might not have heard of Oak Creek Canyon, but it is the state’s second biggest attraction and is a place of great beauty – and it has wonderful climbing. Hiking too, but it’s the climbing we are here to talk about.

The canyon has an 80 – 100 ft basalt cliff along the top which has formed into beautiful dihedrals, aretes, and cracks off all sizes.  The basalt is easy on the hands, and grippy for the feet. This place is a gem, but a popular one!

Oak Creek Canyon is the 4th deepest canyon in Arizona and is famous for the massive, yet moderate Solar Slab, 5.6, as well as the monstrous Eagle Wall further in. If you love huge climbs then  Oak Creek is the place for you.

Solar Slab Wall, Oak Creek CanyonJohnny Vegas 5.7

Get a nice feeling of exposure on this short classic, which is surprisingly steep for the grade. From the top of the route, you can continue on Solar Slab (5.6) for an amazing day with more than 10 pitches of moderate climbing.

4 pitches    ¾-1 hour    Sunrise to late afternoon

Eagle Wall, Oak Creek CanyonLevitation 29 5.11c

A famous and definite Red Rocks classic, following a long and obvious crack system that is steep and intimidating. You’ll get killer exposure, excellent rock and fantastic views especially if you go to the top.

10 pitches    2-3 hours    Most of the day

Solar Slab Wall, Oak Creek CanyonSolar Slab 5.6

The longest and most popular route of its grade. This classic route provides great climbing and awesome position. Given its length, the approach and the long but scenic descent, it should not be taken lightly.

8 pitches    ¾-1 hour to gully    Sunrise until end afternoon

Other classics are, with corresponding numbers to those on the map (1) Black Orpheus 5.9+; (2) Beulah’s Book 5.9; (3) Johnny Vegas 5.7; (4) Going Nuts 5.6; (5) Solar Slab 5.6; (6) Levitation 29 – 5.11c; (7) Eagle Dance 5.10c, A0.

Levitation 29 is a famous Red Rocks classic following a long and obvious crack system that is steep and intimidating. You’ll get killer exposure, excellent rock and fantastic views especially if you go to the top!

Then there’s Duck Soup which is a 5.6 double crack system and nearby Burnt Buns – a 5.8 dihedral and face climb.

Burnt Buns

For the most part, almost every climb of note in Oak Creek is south facing, making this canyon a cool weather destination…

One word of caution: if you are thinking of climbing Eagle Wall – the peregrine falcons have been known to roost on Eagle Dance and if they are there when you wish to climb it is worth noting that the route will be closed.  Please save yourself some time, and the birds some stress, by checking with the Area Manager before setting off.

Bivy permits are available for Eagle Wall.

Here’s a quick look at Duck Soup with thanks to frantikclimber.

Some time ago, we did an article on the Borneo Eco-Challenge adventure race. This was in the early days when we were just discovering adventure racing as an extreme sport. The Borneo eco-challenge was obviously a popular event as we have subsequently received many requests for further information.

This event has not had a recent re-run. However,  ESPN STAR Sport Event Management and associates have come up with a new event:  the Perak Amanjaya Eco Race 2009.

This is rather a last minute alert, but the whole race is a little bit last-minute anyway, which is why this year it is invitation only. However, the organisers intend this to be an annual event so bookmark it now for next year…

The race is due to begin on the 2nd December, completing by the 6th December, 2009 and promises to be an adventure race classic. It will include such disciplines as Trail Running, Kayaking, Mountain Biking, In-line Skating, Abseiling, Canyoning, Rapelling and Swimming… and the state government of Parak, Malaysia, will be hosting the event.

Location, location, location. Don’t we hear that so often? Well, this event is definitely in a beautiful location. It begins in the Royal Belum State Park (rainforest) which is the largest continuous forest complex in Peninsular Malaysia and which crosses into Southern Thailand. It is estimated to be as old as 130 million years, making it older than the jungle of the Amazon or Congo – sorry, I can never resist a little history! Needless to say, some areas of this magnificent forest are being plundered by loggers… when will we ever learn?

This region receives about 2,200 cm of rain per annum – so expect it to be wet! It also has its fair share of big cats, venomous snakes, elephant, Sumatran rhino’s plus a whole host of other bird and wildlife.

Banding Island as seen from Tower House

The race starts at Banding Bridge which is the gateway to Royal Belum Rainforest. A quick run across the bridge and then an abseil down to the lake sets the event off to an exciting start. You then swim to a pontoon, get a kayak and paddle across to the lake shore where you will have to carry your kayak along a jungle trail to the next stretch of water where you will kayak back to the island, leave the kayak and run back to the bridge. An in-line skate across the bridge will bring the first day to a close.

Day 2 starts at the foot hill of Taiping Hill where there will be a trail run to a waterfall. After canyoning down the waterfall competitors will run to Taiping Lake Garden (the first public garden established during the British rule in Malaysia), and in-line skate under the Golden Raintrees. From here there will be a mountain bike ride to the Kampung river mouth for another kayak to Kuala Sepetang and final run on the boardwalk to finish at the jetty of Kuala Sepetang.

Day 3 will be a rest day but also a transfer from Taiping to Pasir Salak where the race will continue.

Pasir Salak is the place where modern Malaysia took shape. It is where the independence movement against the British began and where the first British  resident of Perak, James W.W. Birch, was murdered on 2nd November, 1875. The rebellion of 1875 in Pasir Salak sowed the seeds of nationalism, which manifested itself in the form of opposition to colonialism, and to the formation of a Malayan Union, which ignited the flame of independence.

Today Pasir Salak is an historical site whose purpose is to remind the younger generation of the events there and the fight against colonialism in Perak, and also to remember the struggle and the sacrifice of the warriors to uphold the dignity of the race and country.

So, after yet another history lesson from me, I shall continue with the matter at hand – the eco-challenge adventure race:

Day 4 kicks off with a mountain bike ride up to the beautiful Ulu Geruntum, which is the raft starting point. From here you white water raft down to Kampung Jahang…

run to the cave entrance to start the caving section…

and finish with a run to the finish line at Kampung Tengah.

Day 5, the final day, starts at Pasir Salak with a mountain bike ride to Teluk Batik, kayak to Teluk Segadas at Pangkor Island, rapel down the rock, run to Teluk Dalam beach, swim in the sea in front of Teluk Dalam and finally finish at the beach of Teluk Dalam.

For 2009 this event is open to teams of 2 persons only – male, female or co-ed; only 20 teams are invited and again, for this year, it is an ‘invitation only’ event. Teams are coming from Malaysia, Hong Kong, Macao, Thailand, Singapore, Australia, New Zealand, USA and Finland.

For those of you who would like to enter but wonder what on earth your better half (!) is going to do whilst you’re battling your way through the jungle (if your better half isn’t battling through it with you) … remember that glancing reference I made above to the type of fauna to be found in the Royal Belum National Park?  Well, I then came across this little list – and please bear in mind it is not a final list, of what sort of flora and fauna can be seen and enjoyed in the Royal Belum Rainforest:

247 species of birds
100 species of mammals
170 species of butterflies
251 species of moths
51 species of land snails
36 species of aquatic and semi aquatic bugs
25 species of cicadas
24 species of amphibians
21 species of lizards
23 species of snakes
23 speices of freshwater fish
7 species of freshwater and land turtles
62 species of moss
64 species of ferns
46 species of palms
30 species of gingers
3000 species of flower plants
3 species of freshwater decapod
44 species of wild fruit trees

Apart from that there is the Taiping Lake Garden which, at 222 acres, is the biggest urban parkland in Malaysia, designed and built about 130 years ago in the remains of an old tin mine. It has beautifully laid out ponds, lakes, and reputably, the best zoological gardens in the whole region. And then there’s the spectacular beach of Teluk Dalam and the beautiful island of Pangkor. Just a few of things one might see and do out there. No-one could possibly be bored…

Eldorado Springs is in Boulder County, Colorado and the Eldorado Canyon State Park (20 minutes from downtown Boulder) is famous for the many classic North-American climbing routes that are found here. It has some of the best trad. climbing in Colorado.

It is a town that once lay claim to the largest swimming pool in the country, but now boasts the best-tasting water in North America – as judged at the 1996 International Festival of the Water’s, Toast to the Tap Contest.

Eldorado Canyon has been a magnet for adrenaline junkies for decades – dare-devil Ivy Baldwin demonstrated his heroics by crossing Eldorado Canyon on a tight-rope suspended high above the canyon floor. Guest lists included such famous names as Dwight and Mamie Eisenhower, actor Douglas Fairbanks and heavyweight champion Jack Dempsey.

However, it’s the wide variety of spectacular rock climbing that we are here to talk about…

Eldo is made up of steep, beautiful conglomerate sandstone walls of up to 700 feet high, in brilliant shades of red and gold. The rock quality, although sandstone, is more similar to granite than to the soft sandstone found throughout much of Utah and Arizona.

The largest cliff, Redgarden Wall, is a few thousand feet wide; it boasts several spectacular summits and an incredible collection of classic climbs.

photo courtesy of Ron Olsen

I know many places claim to have the “finest rock climbing in the country”, but this is something pretty special – with names like Freight Train, Iron Monkey, The Naked Edge (5.11), Grandmother’s Challenge (5.10c), Anthill Direct (5.9), Over the Hill (5.10.b), Bastille 5.7/5.8),  Scary Canary (5.12), Eldorado Canyon has over 500 established routes to offer. 5.13s are fairly rare, due to bolt restrictions, but some historic classics such as Desdichado and Rainbow Wall do exist. It has something to offer every standard of climber…

This is truly amazing for a canyon this small; indeed the entire park covers an area of only a half square mile.

Eldo has long attracted the best climbers worldwide who come to defy gravity on cutting-edge face climbs, steep cracks, and exposed, gutsy roof routes. The mere mention of such classic climbs as Rosy Crucifixion (10a) and The Naked Edge (5.11) inspire respect and anticipation in the hearts of rock climbers everywhere.

Top ropes and exclusively bolted leads are rare in Eldorado. The Eldorado sport routes start at 5.11.

Bolts, pitons, and other fixed gear are not maintained by the park. While technical climbs do not require registration, it is your responsibility to make sure someone reports your absence if you happen to be overdue.

photo courtesy of Stacy Bender

“Eldorado is one of the most intensely used rock climbing places in the U.S.,” said Tim Metzger, the Park Manager. “It’s a very historic sight. People have been climbing here since the ’50s. We now attract over 70,000 technical climbers each year.”

Just look at this face – Bastille Crack (5.7/5.8) with climbers on pitch 2:

photo courtesy of Stacy Bender

What better way could you possibly pass a weekend? Hmm, having said that, weekends are of course free for everyone and it can be a bit of a bun-fight there – to avoid crowds it might be better to try going in the middle of the week sometime – this will not ensure solitude but will at least give you a better chance of finding it.

Ideally, a traditional climber’s road trip to Boulder should include a day at Eldo followed by a day at Lumpy Ridge (45 minutes from Boulder). Both offer fantastic climbing, but it is hard to imagine two more different styles. Lumpy Ridge is mainly highly technical granite that requires solid footwork compared to Eldo’s sandstone.

One can climb in Eldo at any time of year, though summer is piping hot, while winter is inconsistent. It is always always popular, and 20 minutes from downtown Boulder, ‘far from the madding crowd’ it is not…

Because Eldo is such a small area with such a wealth of climbs it can be a little confusing. The best guidebook for the region is  Richard Rossiter’s comprehensive “Rock Climbing Eldorado Canyon”. However, Fred Knapp’s “Classic Boulder Climbs” is about a third of the cost, and still has most of the best routes as well as other great routes around Boulder.

On an environmental note, please remember that the walls at Eldorado Canyon are also crucial breeding areas for birds of prey which are extremely sensitive to human disturbance during their nesting and roosting cycle.To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, seasonal raptor closures are in effect from February 1 – July 31, 2006. Routes include: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), the Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches), and the Sidetrack…. However, please contact City of Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks at (303) 441-3440 to make sure you are able to climb where you want to, when you intend to…

My thanks for the use of these wonderful photographs.

“The climbing experience offers something that’s very hard to get in today’s society, infatuated as it is with video games and reality TV and almost divorced from the natural world and real challenge” – Jeff Lowe

If you have done any ice-climbing in the past or intend to give it a go this winter, you will no doubt have heard of Jeff Lowe.

Lowe, a Utah native who was skiing at four and was making technical rope climbs in the Tetons with his father at 6, has been ascending the tallest mountains since somewhere in the 1960’s. Back then there was no such thing as sport or trad. Jim Donini, one of Lowe’s climbing partners, says “He was an all-rounder—he did it all. Although at the time, it was just known as climbing.”

Having stood atop the Himalayas and the highest and most difficult mountains in the Alps, it was his 1978 solo climb up frozen Bridalveil Falls in the rugged San Juan Mountains near Telluride, Colorado, that put Lowe firmly into the history books. Four years earlier he, and friend Mike Weis, had been the first climbers to make it up the 40-story column of ice. In 1978 Lowe did it solo and has subsequently retained an almost mythical status amongst ice climbers.

From the beginning, he was a climbing purist. He believes in fast, light climbing — one or two climbers, possibly three, each carrying everything he needs on his back; no fixed ropes or established camps; camping on the face of the mountain; no oxygen; the most technically challenging routes, often ones that have never been attempted; the use of only one or two ropes.

“I’m not a big adrenaline junkie,” he says. “If you get that, it means things are out of control. I try to avoid that. I hate big shots of adrenaline. It means you don’t have enough margin. That’s why I didn’t kill myself in 40 years of hard-core climbing. I know there are people who think adrenaline is a big part of it. For me, it was finding out what I could do safely.”

Instead of adrenaline, Lowe sought the aesthetics of climbing — the beauty and solitude of his surroundings, the physical and mental challenges of technical climbing and self-discovery.

It was his attempt of the North Ridge of Latok 1 (7,145 m or 23,441 ft) in Pakistan that is considered to be one of the greatest alpine endeavors of all time. Jim McCarthy calls it “by far the greatest failure of American mountaineering.”

Lowe and his team, Jim Donini, Michael Kennedy and cousin George Lowe, spent 26 days on the mountain and came within 122m (400 ft) of the summit, a high point that still holds. Donini cites diminishing fuel reserves, Jeff’s illness from a near-fatal virus and horrendous weather as the main reasons for their retreat. To this day, the North Ridge of Latok 1 awaits a first ascent, despite numerous attempts.

He has accumulated in excess of 1,000 first ascents including the first ascent of the now famed Moonlight Buttress in Zion National Park (V, 5.9, A3, 1971) which he climbed with Mike Weis, plus numerous others in the Alps, Dolomites, Cascades, Himalayas, Rockies, and Andes. He once calculated the number of nights he had spent bivouacked in a tent on the face of a cliff; it added up to several years.

His some-time climbing partner Jim Donini, recent past president of the AAC and a top alpinist, credits Lowe with importing ice-climbing techniques from Europe. He returned with a renewed notion of what was possible. Such first ascents as Bridalveil Falls (WI6, 1974) in Colorado, and Keystone Greensteps (WI5, 1975), Alaska, are Lowe’s ice climbing legacy.

Jim McCarthy says “He transformed ice climbing, period.”

During the late 1990s, while the ESPN Winter X-Games were still held in Big Bear, California, event organizers needed an innovative structure for the ice-climbing competition but the temperatures were too high (60 F) to create frozen waterfalls. After a few days of brainstorming, Lowe came up with the idea of a refrigerated free-standing holographic ice tower … and ice climbing went X-treme!

This tower has now been purchased by Ogden Climbing Parks, a non-profit organization which Lowe is associated with,  and will soon be erected in Ogden’s Big-D Sports Park providing reliable and easy access Ice Climbing. This will be a MAJOR contribution to Ogden as a recreation centre and will draw hundreds of ice climbers to the area.

In the late 1990s Lowe developed multiple system atrophy, a neurodegenerative disorder similar to MS. In 2004, at the age of 53 he had to give up climbing altogether. It is a cruel irony that the man who once solo-climbed a 40-story pillar of ice and became a legend and a Sports Illustrated cover boy with his international climbing exploits should contract such a cruel disease.

“It’s poetic injustice,” he says. “I say that tongue in cheek. I’m not saying ‘Why me?’ I’m saying, ‘Why not me?’ A lot of people have worse disabilities than I do.”

But this did not signal the end of life as he knew it to him – he just took another direction and now continues his involvement and passion for climbing through Ogden Climbing Parks. His goal is to promote and develop the climbing potential around Ogden, Utah. Ogden Climbing Parks also runs programs that allow underprivileged children and those with disabilities to enjoy the climbing experience.

Ogden, with its ambition to become the sports adventure centre of America is fortunate to have someone of Jeff Lowe’s caliber on their team. He was recruited to create a climbing park and to develop Ogden’s potential as a climbing haven. With his passion for mountaineering and his experience, he intends to revolutionise climbing in Ogden, working diligently to secure and open new climbing areas throughout the region.

“I enjoyed climbing so much that I’m getting a lot of joy in passing it along,” he says.

A man to admire…

Some of the best rock climbing in England can be found in Cornwall and climbers from around the world journey there to take advantage of the wide choice of climbing and abseiling available whether it be on inland rock faces such as  Bodmin Moor or rocky cliffs towering over the sea.

Bodmin Moor, in northeastern Cornwall, has dramatic granite tors rising above rolling moorland: the best known are Brown Willy (the highest point in Cornwall at 417 m (1,370 ft) and Rough Tor at 400 m (1,300 ft). This is a beautiful part of Cornwall and the tors of Bodmin Moor are good for climbing and bouldering. There are several other climbing areas closeby…

Kilmar Tor on the eastern side of Bodmin Moor, is a rugged granite ridge and the highest tor here is 396m. There are two climbs that you will need climbing equipment for and plenty of scope for bouldering.

The Cheesewring on Bodmin Moor offers further challenges with many climbs around the wall of the granite quarry. This quarry is on Access Land owned by the Duchy of Cornwall. Climbing is permitted on Access Land provided there are no local restrictions.

The cliffs around Cornwall offer a wealth of sea climbing routes which rival any in the country, so whether you’re an experienced climber or eager amateur wanting to improve your skills, you will find the perfect location for your climb at sites such as Bosigran, Halldrine Cove, Rosemergy Towers, Sennen, Land’s End, The Lizard, North and South East Cornwall and the Chair Ladder. These all provide a variety of climbs with varying levels of difficulty.

The area is composed of mostly granite sea cliffs, although there are a few examples of Greenstone and Killas Slate crags scattered around the north coast between St. Just and St. Ives.  The granite cliffs offer superb rock quality and natural lines, which allow for perfect protection. The 3 main crags are Bosigran and Sennen on the north coast and Chair Ladder on the south.

Sennen Cove is north of Penzance and has a lovely climbing arena just 5m above the sea. Expect to get wet if it’s rough. The rock is granite -very grippy – and the routes are all short and severe. Grades range from Difficult to E6.  Demo Route and the Overhanging Wall – both VS 4c – are worth trying though it is worth noting that the routes are short and so have been graded down by the authors of the Guidebook. Leaders should ensure that their protection is very good here – no errors will be forgiven.

Bosigran is a little further round the north coast (near Pendeen). It is a superb line of cliffs 150 feet above the sea. The granite is fantastic and so are the routes. Most of the grades here are accurate and routes tend to be about 150 feet in length, or more. The Climber’s Club have a luxurious hut (with double glazing, showers, phone, cookers, beds…) near the top of the cliffs, so if you’re a member… you’ve got it made, and the milkman passes at about 10:30 every morning! Doorway and Doorpost are both excellent climbs. Also recommended are Little Brown Jug (VS 4c/5a) and Autumn Flakes.

Chair Ladder, just south of Lands End, has long, exposed and well climbed routes which are true to their grades. It is best to have a guidebook (see below) as the cliff is very complex and the access is tidal.

The Lizard Peninsula is a relatively recently developed climbing area. The rock is of 3 main types – Mica Schist, Ampribolite and Serpentine. These rock types vary dramatically in quality. Fans of steep juggy routes will love it here. There are single- and multi-pitch routes up to 170ft,  and it is here that you will find the remarkable roof route of Aboriginal Sin (E3 5c)

A standard rack of gear should suffice and an abseil rope will be very useful – but don’t take my word for it, always check it out with the locals or a guide book before you set off. The definitive guidebook  is ‘West Cornwall’, published by the Climbers Club. It gives updated descriptions for the cliffs previously covered by the CC’s Bosigran and Chair Ladder guidebooks as well as the crags of the Lizard Peninsula. It gives you the most complete coverage of the climbing available in this region. 2,160 climbs are described!

I need say no more…

Or perhaps just a little bit more…

The bold statement that “The Sun always shines!” is not strictly true… this is, after all, England we’re talking about – that green and pleasant land! However, the statement holds enough credibility to lure hundreds of British and foreign climbers to Cornwall every year. The weather is warm, nearly Mediterranean, the climbs come in all varieties from pleasant rambling to the really tough, skin tearing pitch of shear desperation. Cornwall is a satisfying rock climbing area and once hooked you will return again and again.

It’s been a while since I started the climbing styles discussion (trad and sports), so time to add some more information. Please note that these ‘discussions’ are merely an introduction to various climbing stlyes not the bible. And now for the i’s…

Indoor Climbing

Some would say that indoor climbing is ruining the sport of rock climbing, but as with everything, there is a time and a place for it, if only to get your initial rock climbing lessons. However, the tendency to become a little cocky on an indoor wall has been known, and seldom transfers with confidence to a real rock face!

There is a place for indoor climbing. Many people live in an inclement climate which prevents them from climbing outdoors as often as they wish. Equally many people find it difficult to find the time to go out rock climbing, but most people nowadays find time to go to a gym … and if you love rock climbing and there is a wall at your gym, then hey – why not?

In order to improve in any sport, consistent practice is crucial. With the advent of indoor climbing, weather, seasonal difficulties, and busy schedules are less of an obstacle to consistent improvement, and enjoyment of the sport.

The concept is simple: climbing walls, which can range from 14 thousand square feet to the size of a basement, are bolted with holds (points where the hands or feet can settle their weight in while climbing) and are located under a roof.

Because indoor climbing is in a controlled environment it is safer than climbing in the great outdoors, and although it may look easy as all the holds are easily distinguishable, it does offer different levels which you can try out and master. Despite the apparent uniformity from the ground, harder routes demand more effort and physical strength to be successfully scaled.

It is certain, though, that indoor climbing walls do not have the diversity of the real thing, nor the adrenaline buzz that you get from a real rock face. But for some, it’s better than nothing…

Ice Climbing

Ice climbing is self-explanatory – it’s all about ascending ice formations such as frozen waterfalls, icefalls and cliffs or rocks that have refrozen over.

There are two catagories of ice climbing: alpine ice and water ice.

Alpine ice, again self-explanatory, is in a mountain environment and is generally caused by precipitation. It is normally encountered on a summit attempt. Whereas water ice is caused by a frozen liquid flow of water and is found on cliffs or beneath water flows. Water ice is generally more technically challenging than Alpine ice.

Ice varies greatly in consistency according to weather conditions. It can be soft, hard, brittle or tough and the technical grade is independent of ice type. The strength of the ice is often surprising; even if the ice axe only goes in a centimeter or so it is enough to pull up on.

What you wear on your hands and feet is of vital importance for serious ice climbing. Your boots must be stiff enough to maintain ankle support and must be crampon compatible.  And your gloves will be of paramount importance. You ARE going to get cold, wet and numb! I have been told that the best are the GTX ones, but that they are pricey. If you can’t afford them then the next best thing to do is invest in the off brand pile gloves or wool gloves and carry multiple pairs. One that will get wet and one pair that will stay “dry” for belaying and standing around. Equally you could stock up with shells – the ones by OR are good and relatively affordable. Make sure you have yet another pair of warm, comfortable gloves for the way home.

Some important techniques and practices common in rock climbing (a discipline we are more familiar with) that are also employed in ice climbing include knowledge of rope systems, tying in, belaying, leading, abseiling, and lowering. However, there are other and different tools needed for ice climbing, amongst these are ice screws, ice axes/pick, a spike – important for balancing with the tool when you’re moving on low-angle ice, a hammerhead – allows you to pound pitons into the rock for protection, and an adze which can be helpful for chopping stances in alpine terrain and, of course, crampons.

One of the things that does make a difference in ice climbing is weight and balance – I have been told that this can make a difference to what tools you choose. Smaller climbers or those with less arm strength often prefer lighter tools whilst strong, confident climbers often prefer the weight of a heavy tool. More important than weight is balance. The tool’s balance point should be near its head so most of the energy of the swing goes into penetrating the ice.

If you are going to embark on an ice climbing career you must make sure that you are comfortable with the various tools. The best way to check this out is to attend an ice demo or festival where you can try out a variety of models bearing in mind that this is just a demo and does not give a full assessment of the tool’s performance.

I have given you the bare outlines of ice climbing here. I have not done it myself – though loving the cold as I do…hopefully it’s only a matter of time before I take on this challenge.

“Why ice climb? well apart from the fact that I get a huge buzz out of being scared shitless most of the time, its because its so so beautiful.” – Pete Atkinson

What further incentive could you possibly need?